---
title: A Practical Guide to Silicone Alternatives and Compliant Claims
description: Fermentation-derived lipids offer a biobased alternative to silicones and plant oils. A formulator's guide to performance, claims and UK compliance
---

[The Green Chem Hive](https://www.olallaconsulting.com/the-green-chem-hive)

# [A Practical Guide to Silicone Alternatives and Compliant Claims](https://www.olallaconsulting.com/the-green-chem-hive/a-practical-guide-to-silicone-alternatives-and-compliant-claims)

 Written by [By Carmen M. Lerga BSc (Hon) MRSC, MSCS, MIFSCC, for Olalla Consulting](https://www.olallaconsulting.com/the-green-chem-hive/author/by-carmen-m-lerga-bsc-hon-mrsc-mscs-mifscc-for-olalla-consulting) | 3 Oct 2026, 08:52:28

A founder rang me last spring with a problem I hear almost monthly. Her bench mark serum relied on dimethicone, her retail buyer wanted a silicone-free reformulation within six months, and her natural oil swaps had left the product greasy, inconsistent and more expensive. She did not need another ingredient list. She needed a way to choose, test and claim with confidence.

After 25 years in formulation and regulatory work, I have seen this pattern repeatedly. Sustainable cosmetic ingredients are easy to find, but performance, consistency, cost and compliant claims are hard to get right at the same time. This guide sets out what to look for.

**Why Brands Are Moving Away from Silicones and Traditional Plant Oils**

Two pressures are squeezing formulators at once.

**Silicone scrutiny.** Retailers, consumers and regulators are all asking harder questions about silicones, particularly in rinse-off products. Many brands now want a credible dimethicone alternative that keeps the slip and spread customers love.

**Plant oil volatility.** canola, sea buckthorn and argan oils perform well, but crop variability, climate exposure and supply chain risk make batch consistency a genuine concern. Tropical sourcing also brings deforestation due diligence, with the EU Deforestation Regulation (EUDR) adding scrutiny for brands selling into Europe.

**What Are Fermentation-Derived Lipids?**

Bio engineered lipids are produced by fermenting renewable feedstocks, such as sugar beet and corn, rather than harvesting a seed or fruit. The result is a triglyceride with a controlled fatty acid profile, so every batch behaves like the last.

One example I have reviewed recently is CosVivet ActiLipid O7 (INCI: C12-18 Acid Triglyceride). Supplier data describes a clear yellow liquid with minimal odour, a recommended use level of 1 to 5%, and an omega-7 content of 24 to 27%, comparable to macadamia and sea buckthorn oils. It is reported as 100% biobased with a natural origin index of 1 under ISO 16128, and a carbon footprint several times lower than the plant oils it is benchmarked against.

**Why omega-7 matters to your positioning**

Omega-7 is associated with skin comfort and barrier support, which is why it features in anti-ageing and sensitive skin concepts. Having it in a consistent, palm-free, non-tropical ingredient gives brand teams a cleaner story to tell.

**What the Performance Data Suggests (and How to Read It Critically)**

The supplier's studies used a serum containing 2.5% of the ingredient, assessed over four weeks against a benchmark serum without it. Reported results include:

These are encouraging, but I always advise clients to read supplier data like an auditor. In the dry hair combing data, macadamia oil (58.7%) edged ahead of the new lipid (56.1%), so a blanket "outperforms everything" claim would not survive scrutiny. Sample sizes, study design and test conditions also matter. Supplier data tells you where to start. It does not replace testing in your own formulation.

**Mini Case Study: Reformulating a Silicone Serum**

Returning to that founder, we followed a simple three-stage process:

1. **Define the sensory target.** We scored the existing serum for slip, spread, residue and shine, so we knew what "as good as silicone" meant.
2. **Screen two or three candidates at 2 to 3%.** Comparing biobased lipids side by side in her actual base showed us quickly which ones were worth taking forward.
3. **Test, then claim.** Instrumental measurements and consumer panels on the final formula gave us evidence matched to each marketing statement.

The reformulation moved forward in under five months, and the claims on pack were ones she could defend.

**Actionable Advice for Formulators and Brand Owners**

**Check the natural origin credentials properly**

Ask for the ISO 16128 calculation for your complete formula, not just the single ingredient. A 100% biobased lipid helps, but your final natural origin index depends on every component.

**Match claims to evidence**

Under UK and EU cosmetics rules, claims must be supported by adequate, relevant evidence. "Instrumentally shown" and "clinically proven" are not interchangeable, and a result achieved at 2.5% in a serum does not automatically transfer to your cleanser at 1%. Keep a claims dossier from the start.

**Plan for supply and regulation together**

Confirm UK and EU regulatory status, documentation, safety assessment support and supply continuity before your launch timeline is fixed. Delays here are far more costly than delays in the lab.

**Think multifunctional**

A single lipid that delivers skin benefits, sensory elegance and hair conditioning can simplify your INCI list, cut complexity and support a cleaner label.

**The Bottom Line**

Biobased, fermentation-derived lipids are a serious option for brands seeking silicone alternatives without compromising feel or performance. The winners will be those who combine good science, honest claims and careful regulatory planning.

**Need a Second Pair of Eyes?**

If you are reformulating, building a new range or reviewing your claims, I would be glad to help. With 25 years of hands-on formulation and regulatory experience, I work with founders, technical directors and development teams to turn good ideas into compliant, high-performing products.

**Get in touch for a no-obligation conversation about your project: [contact@olallaconsulting.com](mailto:contact@olallaconsulting.com).**

 

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